Staining your deck in Naperville

• Overview
• Options
• Cost
• How it runs
• FAQ

Why the wash and the wait matter more than the stain

Most deck stain failures come from prep, not product: stain brushed over dirt, mildew or an old flaking finish has nothing sound to soak into.

So every job starts with a cleaning matched to the type of wood and a dry-out of a full day or more, then stain worked along full board lengths so no lap marks dry in.

Pressure-treated pine decks

Pressure-treated pine is the most common deck lumber, and new boards need to dry out before they take stain well, which can mean waiting months after a deck is built. On older decks, the pine checks and splinters as it weathers, so we wash, brighten and lightly sand the rough spots before staining. A semi-transparent or semi-solid stain suits most pine decks; it soaks in rather than forming a film that can peel underfoot. Boards with deep cracks or popped nails are noted and fixed first.

Cedar decks

Cedar is softer than pine and full of natural oils and tannins, so it gouges easily under a pressure washer and can bleed dark stains when cleaned with the wrong product. We clean it at low pressure, use a brightener to even out the tone, and let it dry before staining. A penetrating oil or semi-transparent stain shows off the grain; solid colors hide it. Cedar decks that already wear a solid stain generally need to stay solid, unless the old coat is stripped off completely.

Rails and spindles

Rails and spindles have four faces each, so they hold far more surface per foot than the deck floor, and they take weather from every side. We brush or pad every face, wipe drips before they dry and cover the boards below so spindle runs do not leave spots on fresh floor stain. Many people choose a solid stain or paint on the rails with a semi-transparent stain on the floor, which looks crisp and holds color longer on the vertical parts that get no foot traffic at all.

Staining weather around Naperville, by the calendar

Deck staining, from inspection to furniture back

1. Inspect. Check for loose boards, popped nails and old failing stain.
2. Wash or strip. Clean off mildew and gray fibers, or strip a failed coat.
3. Dry. Wait until the boards test dry, usually a day or more.
4. Stain. Rails and spindles first, then floor boards in full lengths.
5. Back in use. Furniture returns once the stain has had time to set.

Deck staining prices from published guides

Treat these HomeAdvisor figures as a planning starting point, not as our quote.

What moves the price

• Deck size and number of levels
• Rails, spindles and stairs
• Stripping old stain versus a wash
• Semi-transparent versus solid stain
• Boards to replace or refasten first

How long the deck is off-limits

Plan on two to three days in total: one to wash, a dry-out day or more, then staining. Bare feet can usually go back on after about a day, furniture after two.

Transparent, semi-transparent or solid deck stain

More pigment means more protection from sun and less grain on show.

Deck jobs to do yourself and when to bring us in

Clearing and rinsing is easy; the staining is where DIY jobs go wrong.

A deck stained on the right day soaks in evenly and keeps its color longer, so we watch the forecast as closely as the wood.

Call (630) 760-2729

Deck stains we work with

Cabot, Ready Seal and Duckback penetrating stains for most decks, with Olympic and Behr solid colors where older boards need hiding.

• Sherwin-Williams
• Benjamin Moore
• PPG Paints
• Behr
• Valspar
• Cabot
• Sikkens
• Olympic
• Zinsser
• Kilz
• Romabio
• Ready Seal

Jobs that often go with this one